9003 Lubrication Procedure
Tackle this procedure at your own
peril: (a) it might void your warranty and (b) if you don't do it properly you will
have a $2000 paperweight on your hands. Our suggestion is that you read
through these directions at least twice before you attempt lubing it. Once
you have it in your mind's eye, then tackle it. Here is the
exploded diagram of the 9003, it is big
[5 meg] on
download. Print it out to understand the location of various
bits and pieces as you read and do this procedure. The drawing for the
much easier to lubricate 2002 Air Rifle (500K 8 pages) is
found here. The
figure numbers listed below in parenthesis come from the exploded
diagram noted above.
Firstly you have to remove the rifle
from the stock. That is effected by removing the two flat head screws
the sides of the stock and also loosening the two set screws (5) on the front
support for the air cylinder. The trick to getting the rifle out of the
stock it to slide it forward a bit to disengage the front rubber shocks (108) from the
mounting pins (109).
Once removed the next step is to remove
the barrel/regulator from the breach/trigger mechanism.
There are four screws (49) that hold the two
parts together. They may be very tight and the key is to have a proper
tool to access them as they can be under very high torque. However, they may not.
We have seen both conditions.
Notice the direction of the parts in
the middle(53,54,55,56,57), the order is critical
Then you remove the rubber block
(130) on the
rear of the breach and remove the two screws (65) the hold the cocking mechanism
(61, 62, 63,64) to
the breach. It will now slide forward.
Now you want to remove the trigger
the breach. Firstly there is a cocking plate (133) that has to come off.
Try and pay attention to how it comes out, as there is a trick to getting it back
together and it all rests in that piece. There are 3 screws (65)
that need to removed to lift this plate out.
There are two of 4 screws
(102) that you remove to lift the
#5065 trigger housing out. They are the two black hex ones on the top of the
trigger case that you remove and lift the trigger out.
The next step is to remove the
bolt (92) from the breach. The bolt is chrome and there is a
stabilizer [spring loaded
cylinder] (200, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205) behind it. It is critical to note the orientation of the
bolt so that its holes line up with the sear and lever cocking plate
(106) and bolt (103) later.
Now you need to deeply clean all the parts in a good
solvent. 3M's Novec HFE-72DE is wonderful but you might not have access to it.
A good second choice is the environmentally unfriendly Brake Cleaner that you
can buy in NAPA for about $2.00 a can [the red label usually]. Clean, blow
dry and clean and dry again. Wipe all parts off very well with a lint free
Now look at the trigger and ALL parts for any signs of
abuse or high wear etc. There shouldn't be any but always a good idea to
Clean the trigger mechanism with the
same Bake Cleaner and air dry VERY WELL. Repeat. You can not dry it
Time To re-lube and re-assemble the
unit. Trigger lube points are as follows
Notice that we use way more
Gun Snottm Liquid Lube than Gun Snot Paste Lube. There are 8 Gun Snot Liquid Lube points on top and 3
Gun Snot Paste Lube points. The
'stiction' of the Gun Snot Paste Lube is too high for most parts in the trigger, but they are
supreb for high load points. We do add Gun Snot Paste Lube to the sear and contact
points. Basically you lubricate anything that moves or is shiny.
From the bottom look for points of movement or shine and use Gun Snot Liquid
Now the comes the fun part; to lube and
reassemble. Notice the areas where we use Gun Snot Paste Lube versus Gun
Snot Liquid Lube.
Notice that some parts use a combination of Gun Snot Liquid Lube and Gun Snot
Paste Lube to thin the Gun Snot Paste Lube
out. No time now for too much lubrication friction. Also notice that
we use Booger Buster on the bolt. We have seen failures of TW-25
when used here and the stiction of Gun Snot Paste Lube is too high for this
application. Gun Snot Paste Lube will not dry out here
like TW25, but has too much stiction to
work well. Booger Buster is perfect and it's anti corrosion
properties are perfect for the raw machined metal in there. Remember LESS
LUBRICATION IS BETTER THAN MORE. ANY LUBRICATION NOT USED FOR LUBRICATION
IS A DIRT MAGNET!
Now you do the following:
Insert the bolt into the
breach (remember the direction it goes from disassembly, lightly lubed with
Insert the stabilizer in
behind it (lightly lubed with Gun Snot Liquid Lube and Gun Snot Paste Lube). Pay attention to the safety
position to the bolt so that it moves as designed once the bolt and
stabilizer are inserted. [For the record,
we hate the safety on this
rifle as it fails to the safe mode on vibration alone, we tape it into the
fire mode so that it does not accidentally go 'safe' during finals].
Lightly Gun Snot
Paste Lube lube the bolt
and insert it into the lightly Gun Snot Liquid Lube lubed bore guide, replace the
two cocking mount screws.
Move the action back and forth in
the bore to make sure that there is no binding anywhere and use Gun Snot
Liquid Lube as
needed to get the "feel" in the action that you like.
Replace the rubber plug in the back
of the breach behind the bore in the hole making sure that no dirt has
sneaked in there.
Replace the trigger back into the
Aluminum Breach plate and make sure that the bolt and the sear are
lined up. Torque the trigger case back into place.
NOW THE TRICKY PART:
Remember the plate you took off at the start that we told you to pay
attention to? Well here is where we find out how closely you watched
it come out. Lay the plate (103) in so that the little tab on the right hand
end mates up with the hole on the stabilizer. Put the tab into
the hole on the stabilizer and the hole in the plate onto the breech
Take the overall cover plate (the
one with the 4 flat screws holding it on) and align the sliding tab (106) on the
top into the slot on the bolt, simultaneous to aligning the small hole in
the plate (103) with the overall plate and the hole in the plate from
step #7. When all three are perfectly lined up, the 3 hole cover plate
lay flat on the breach; not before. DO NOT FORCE IT. The first time we
did this it took a 50 plus year gunsmith 2.5 hours using blue prints to
figure it out! Now it takes like 3 mins.
Once the breach assembly is back
together gently try to cock the assembly and make sure that all is well.
It should dry fire easily and smoothly. If it does not go back and
check your work. and repeat the steps until it does.
Now use a goodly amount of
Gun Snot Paste Lube Lube in
the slot on the left hand side of the bolt where the cocking lever (106) engages
it in the slot. This is a very high wear area on this rifle and it
needs to be lubed regularly with Gun Snot Paste Lube.
Reassemble the rifle assembly to
the Breach and tightly torque the 4 long bolts (49).
Use a liberal amount of
Gun Snot Paste Lube on the small O-Ring (85) at the end of the
Use the Gun Snot Paste
Lube on the
rubber shock mounts (108, 109) to; (a) hold them into place during stock reassembly (b)
allow the rifle to slide into the stock easily.
Get it all lined up and then snug
the two flat bolts on the sides (108c) first then tighten the two set screws
(5) at the
front. It is not critical how torqued these bolts are, rather it is
more critical that they be the same torque and of course snug.
Now the rest of the story. At the
end of the regulator is a very small tiny Green Colored O-Ring (59a). Use a TINY
amount of Gun Snot Paste Lube on the O-Ring. Then get your air cylinder
(23) and use the
Gun Snot Liquid Lube on the Female part of the cylinder. Again you don't need a lot, but
it must be lubed. TW25 dries out in here and if you store a back up
cylinder be sure to lube it before you store it. Only use the Gun Snot
Liquid Lube here. If you do insert a dry
cylinder can rip the O-ring out of there after like 2-3 insertions [ask us how
we know]. Then on the threads of the air cylinder and the female threads
of the receiver (50), use a tiny amount of Booger Buster. This step applies to
the 2002 Anschutz air rifle as well. Then take a small amount of Booger
Buster on the external parts to protect them and make the bluing really shine.
Use a lint free cloth and again, only a very, very fine coat is needed.
Now the age old question,
how often do
I have to do this? Good question and there is not a tried and true
answer. However, the barrel needs to be wire brushed after about 500
rounds [per Matt Emmons], then run a felt pellet down the barrel with Booger Buster on it twice to
protect the raw steel until the next use. As for the bolt, use the Gun
Snot Liquid Lube
between deep cleanings like we just described to keep the feel that you like.
Deep cleaning is a function of time and use. If you are not
using Gun Snot lubes, then no longer then 4 months between
re-lubrication. However if you shoot 3-5 times a week, then once a month deep clean will
keep it consistent. Pedestrian dirt is your enemy. The more
meticulous you can be in reducing exposure of your rifle to dirt and
grit the better off you will be.