Frequently Asked Questions

 

How often do I have to clean an air rifle or re-lube it? 

Good question and there is not a tried and true answer.  However, the barrel needs to be wire brushed after about 500 rounds, then run a felt pellet down the barrel with Booger Buster on it twice to protect the raw steel until the next use.  As for the bolt, use the Gun Snot Liquid Lube between deep cleanings like we just described to keep the feel that you like.  Deep cleaning is a function of time and use.  If you are not using Gun Snot lubes, then no longer then 4 months between re-lubrication.  However if you shoot 3-5 times a week, then once a month deep clean will keep it consistent.  Pedestrian dirt is your enemy.  The more meticulous you can be in reducing exposure of your rifle to dirt and grit the better off you will be.

I am using FP10 for my slide oil and other moving parts. So far it has been great. It does, however, contain synthetic & petroleum hydrocarbons and should not be used in air guns. I was told it was designed for firearms that have fast moving parts and that tend to have powder residue. For the trigger and sear I have been using a old tube of Tetra Gun Grease.  It is a paste and seems to work very good.  The product is a Fluoropolymer

The FP10 is not something that we are familiar, but from the sounds of it, it is like a lot of other synthetic blends that are good, but frankly Gun Snot is better, especially if it for a compressed air weapon.  the FP-10 has a load carrying capability that is less than their MT-10 (extreme pressure additive) and SURPRISE the MP-10 it is identical to Gun Snot paste at a load carrying capability of >800KG. 

Remember that the basis for our grease is an Air Force formulation that we have added an anticorrosion additive.  If you want more anti corrosion we have it, but are not crazy about it in firearms.  Does a great job but the anti corrosion additive tends to discolor everything it touches (very good stuff) and combust in an AR-15 for example (like they all do BTW).  Theirs uses Molybdenum Disulfide which is a very good extreme pressure additive but it is black, so it is hard to see where and how much you put on the weapon when you lubed it.  Ours is white and a tell tale of where and how much paste was applied. 

It is simple.  remember that too much or unused lube (a) does nothing and (b) is a dirt magnet.  In a cartridge firearm, that dirt is burned powder that collects on the MoS2 grease smeared everywhere and now becomes grit and that is starting to sound like sandpaper. Only it moves and is washed away with normal barrel cleaning solutions.  Normal gun cleaning stuff does not remove the G/S, It must be highly chlorinated or fluorinated.  Powder Blast will work but it contains methylene chloride that was found to be harmful to mice.  Use brake cleaner it is cheaper and works just the same.
 

Gun Snot Lubes are not cheap.  I have used motor oil in my Daisy 853 and RemOil in most my other stuff and Wal-Mart sells it cheap.  Why is Gun Snot so expensive?

Gun Snot is NOT cheap.  If you want cheap go to Wal-Mart and get what you pay for.  The Gunsmiths and OEM spare parts suppliers will love you for it.  Fluorine chemistry is not cheap.  Remember when the first Teflon
tm  skillet came out and was 3 times the cost of the cast iron one your mom used for years?

When you provide to the market THE highest content of Fluoropolymers and Oligomers (look it up) it is not going to be cheap.  The more you all buy, the cheaper it will get, to a point.  We understand that your Dad or someone that you respect highly, uses XYZ for his lube and has for years.  We are not going against Dad or Mom, but you all need to take a look at these developments that are not just new, but revolutionary.

A 5 gram tube sounds like a little bit, but one tube will lube a trigger and bolt mechanism of an Anschutz 9003 about 9 times, or and AR-15 for 2 uppers and one lower, or 6 precision smallbore cleanings, DEEP cleanings, not just 'licks and promises'. 

Further, ever have the lube stop before the match did?  Gun Snot lasts the entire match and will not dry out in your gun case if you clean it and store it for 6 months like TW25 will. 

Remember; if the product separates in the bottle and has to be shaken or stirred prior to use, it will separate in your application.  Take some Gun Snot and some of your favorite lube and put it on a cookie tray and bake it for 4 hours at 250F.  Let it cool.  Touch them both.  Which one do you want on your $2000 rifle?


How do I best use it?

Use the paste on any surfaces that touch one another or are shiny (meaning showing wear). Use the liquid on any rotational surface or springs. Use the liquid to adjust the feel of any paste lubricated area that might not have the 'stiction' that you want. Make sure that ALL the plates and sliders the trigger are lubricated with the liquid. Also it is imperative to make sure that ALL the prior lube be removed. We have cleaners sold here in auto parts stores that contain Tetrachloethylene that are used for rebuilding automotive braking systems. It is very cheap and does a wonderful job of removing prior lubrication.
 

Do you have anything for the external parts of the rifle?  I have a light coating of rust that has started to form last week and I am worried about what to do about it.

We are introducing right now an incredible barrel protectant [Booger Buster] that you might want to look at as well and it is very cost effective.  If you are shooting in the rain or storing a shotgun long term it will protect the surface from corrosion etc.  Again, no mixing or shaking required prior to use.  It does have a slight odor that some find undesirable.

As for your surface rust, clean the surface as best you can with your normal cleaners.  Then take a very rough lint free cloth and put a good amount of Booger Buster on it and rub and rub.  The coarse cloth will help remove the surface rust and the Booger Buster will get under the rust and react with the residual water molecules that are in there and start to protect it from future corrosion.  If it is really bad, try some 0000 steel wool (that is the grit designation) and LIGHTLY rub the Booger Buster on there to remove the rust.  BE CAREFUL with this step as you can do more damage than good with the 0000 steel wool if you do not know what you are doing

Where the rust formed, the bluing is gone.  Nothing short of re-bluing the rifle will replace that.  So continue to use Booger Buster on the surface to protect it from re-rusting.

 

Is this product appropriate for shotguns (autos, o/u's etc.)

Yes it is.  The high loading capacity and a virtually pure base of PTFE and PFPE make it virtually 100% fluorinated (Fluoropolymers) and incredibly slick and consistent.  The key to using any lubricant especially one that is highly fluorinated is to clean off the old stuff that is hydrocarbon based including Tetralube and TW25 which have some fraction of perfluorinated components in them.  We find brake cleaner works well and is inexpensive, as well as Powder Blast, but they contain highly chlorinated components, so make sure the action and barrel are dried very well after cleaning especially if they are stainless steel.  Conventional cleaners will not wash it out it of triggers and slides.
 
If your current lubricant separates in the bottle on your shelf, it will separate on the weapon.  Gun Snot will not separate or hard pack either in the package or on the weapon.  The liquid is pure and clear and VERY high viscosity but still has a surface tension of 16 dynes that is similar to pure Teflontm.  It stays where you put it, provides long term lubrication and remains over long periods of shooting OR storage without gross physical change. Cleaning a rifle and storing it for 6-9 months means that it will perform the same as that day it was put up because the components did not evaporate while in storage.  The stuff works. 
 

Are the 6x8 decals static or do they stick on the windows?

They are self adhesive vinyl decals. The smaller ones we have been passing out at matches free.
 

Matt Emmons is said to use your stuff.  Is that true or is it just advertising hype?

Matt started using Gun Snot before it was officially a product for sale.  He knew we had a lot of fluorine technology and asked us if we had anything he could try before the Olympic trials.  We did have something we were using for years and sent him some.  Well, he LOVED it, we formed the firm, he took it to Athens, and the rest is history as they say.  Matt is not the only world champion using Gun Snot today.  But he is the only one that has joined in a partnership with us to bring this revolutionary product to the world market.  Matt is given a lot of free stuff by everyone, Matt PICKED Gun Snot for a simple reason, it worked like nothing he had ever used prior.  Look up and down the line at the national matches, the top shooters are all starting to use Gun Snot.  Coincidence?