How to use Gun Snot for Rifles and Pistols
"All rifles and pistols cover everything from a blackpowder rifle to the new trend to suppressed rifles or a Barrett 50 cal weapon to a .25 semiautomatic pistol or compressed air rifles and so forth. Remember we designed these lubes for Compressed Air rifles and .22 for the Olympics in 2004 originally and evolved out from there.
We can provide a high performance lube or corrosion protector for a lot of these weapons, but each has its own needs and limitations. We do not pretend to know what is the best for every version of any weapon but we know which product you need to lube it specifically for that weapon to deal with an issue(s) you may be having. However, we never stop researching solutions that the community is seeing and trying to find the most efficient and cost effective way to solve them. We are currently working on 3 new products for various needs expressed and so far we are making good progress including CLP grades.
Below is a youtube video of the use and cleaning of a Glock 21 as an example of using Dots and not Lots. You don't need to swamp the receiver of any weapon. Only put it where it works best ie, shiny, sliding and high impact areas in the receiver like the hammer. The video below shows where to lubricate a common pistol after determining the best locations it can do its work and not become a carbon or dirt magnet.
WORD OF ADVICE: we took the Glock apart 3 times until we found the exact areas that needed and used the products the best. We suggest that guessing where that might be is not the precision way to determine the best location for each product. These are not cheap lubricant that you can wash the entire lower in so find out where the work is being done and lube just that area. Sounds tedious but it works.
REMEMBER - "Dots Not Lots"
The first thing you should do is clean the Barrel of the rifle or pistol with your favorite copper cleaner or 'Butch's Bore Shine®' and that is fine. Use whatever you believe is the best cleaner for your particular weapon. Gun Snot® does not clean out your barrel. The products showcased here are for the next step and the final step that brings us back to the barrel, but that is later.
The first step is to de-grease the receiver or the Breach (lower) with a simple and cost effective solvent that removes all the old polymer mixed lubricant from before and gives you a bare and pristine gun to work. There are a lot of solvents out there and some people use ultrasonics (most sold are 40kHz but we find 25kHz to be most effective on metal), but those are usually water based and you need to dry the part off either by using compressed air or our favorite solvent which is Brake Cleaner (red can not the green) from your favorite Auto Supply Store. The red can is about $5 and it will degrease a number of guns but you MUST wear eye protection as it can splash back into your face depending how it impinges on the various nooks and crannies of the receiver.
Some people like to use an old cardboard box so the 'crud' that comes off the gun falls into a place that will ultimately be disposed and will not stain the floor in front of you. Dealer's choice on the use of an old box.
Once you have degreased the lower to the bare metal you now have un-protected metal (other then oxide or bluing) that later we will deal with under booger buster.
the nest step is to inspect the lower with a clear eye to see if there are shiny, rolling areas or bright shiny parts are in the lower. The best lubricant to put on there is tiny dot of Gun Snot. Again "dots not lots" you do not need to swamp the slide hammer or other shiny parts with tons of Gun Snot - a little goes a long way. We have found that instead of using tons off lubricant that your pappy used to use, you really do not use a lot of Gun Snot. Simple reason - on a gas ejected weapon the lube your pappy used is a hydrocarbon and it will incinerate and turn in to carbon (dirt). Gun Snot will not incinerate via the gas eject tube. It only gets worse with a suppressed weapon that blows tons of carbon back in your face if it is not balanced correctly.
Now you go to the rest of the lube package is the liquid and the Gold. Gold is Gun Snot Paste and diluted with a perfluorinated solvent that make a thin layer coating on the trigger to prevent drag on a sensitive trigger and safety. Gun Snot Liquid is exceptional to touch and place 'dots' of lubricant where they are not mission critical but useful for the movement of the mechanism and not load bearing parts.
The other benefit of Liquid is that it is excellent to thin out other applications of Paste or Gold to the exact amount and feel you want.
So now your lower is lubed at the critical spots and now you want to protect the degreased lower with Booger Buster. Bugger Buster is a VOC - the only one. But it can take 300 hours in salt chamber on raw cold steel at 200˚F. We are working on a new version that takes over 1000 hours using the same ASTM test. Put this on any part that is not protected.
Lastly you have cleaned the barrel and now we need to protect the lands and grooves with the Bugger Buster So run like 3 patches thru the barrel and when it come out perfectly clean you have accomplished the project. This will prevent and preserve the sharp lands and grooves in the barrel from long term storage.
NOTE: Any product with the name Gun Snot® on its label contains no VOC's, BPA's, PFIB or PFOA's. Only Booger Buster is a VOC but contains no BPA or PFIB or PFOA.